How To Get A Discount On A New Car

• Better Man in brief ...
• Keeping an open mind with respect to colors and options may mean a lower price.
• Be patient and wait for incentives and end-of-year bargains.
• Try shopping around far and wide for the best deals in your surrounding area.

"When you love cars and are prone to instant gratification, it’s tough to stick with the same car more than a year."

While penny auction sites insist you can bid on and win any new car you like for the equivalent of a few months’ payments, purchasing through an authorized brick-and-mortar (or click-and-mortar) dealership is a safer and smarter bet. Not that they’ll let you drive off the lot for a thousand bucks. Like it or not, car dealers are for-profit organizations, with overhead and quotas to meet. 

That said, you still need to know how to get a discount on a new car. In your father’s day, that meant a marathon of arguing over a couple hundred bucks for pinstripes and rustproofing. The art of the deal has thankfully evolved. Through education, technology and a little self-discipline, you can still negotiate a realistic deal while saving thousands up front and over the life of your loan.

Be Flexible But Persistent

When you’ve settled on the car you want to buy, it’s good to not only know its features and specs, but also its price points. Most models have multiple trim levels with graduated pricing for standard and optional equipment. It’s tempting to load a car with everything available, but you can literally double the sticker price in the process. So keep an open mind with options and paint. If you can live with a less popular option package and/or color, a dealer might part with it more willingly than the loaded, neutral-toned example more people are buying. As long as you know when to draw the line and avoid being steered into a "deal" that’s actually more expensive, you can still get the car you want without overspending on stuff you don’t need.

Factor Your Trade-In Or -Out

Depending on what you’re ditching and what you’re buying, trading in may or may not work in your favor. Be prepared to go either way. See what cars like your old one are fetching in the local classifieds (or the classifieds local to your dealer if substantial distance is involved). While you’re at it, have your potential salesperson give you a ballpark trade-in quote. If you have a high-demand sports car and suddenly learn you’ll need something modest with room for a baby, an infant seat and the half ton of requisite paraphernalia, you could be in a very favorable position. If your outgoing ride is more environmentally hazardous than Charlie Sheen, chances are you’ll come out better selling it on your own or donating it to charity and cashing in at tax time.

Be Patient

When you love cars and are prone to instant gratification, it’s tough to stick with the same car more than a year. We get that, because we’ve been there. But we also hate wasting big bucks on an impulse purchase instead of waiting a few months to get a generous discount on a new car. In general, it’s wise to buy during early or late months of the year, when most folks’ monetary focus is elsewhere despite the traditionally great car deals that can be had. Some of those incentives, like rebates, sales events and low-rate financing, are now appearing in the middle months, so don’t let your awareness down the rest of the year.

While you’re at it, drop by the dealer and see your would-be salesperson periodically to stay on his radar, showing you’re serious about a new car, but not desperate. Just don’t wait too long, like until your old car dies and you absolutely need a new car immediately.

We've got more tips on how to save money on a new car next...

Your resolve could have you inhaling New Car Smell in no time."

How New Does It Have To Be?

Be honest with yourself, and decide if you really must take delivery of an absolutely new car fresh off the truck. If you can live with a few numbers on the odometer, you can save big numbers on the bottom line while still being the first guy to register it. To get a discount on a new car this way, look at dealer demos or unsold cars from the last model year. It’s even more to your advantage when a model is redesigned. That’s when dealers become especially eager to clear any remaining inventory they have before the next-generation models arrive.

Get A Referral

For all the online reviews of any given dealer, you still can’t drop a username and expect to get a discount on a new car (“Um, bigdaddy69 told me to see you about a deal on a minivan…”). Instead, this is one time when old-school tactics still have relevance today. For this, you’ll need a longtime customer referring you directly to his longtime salesperson. Even if it means prolonged digression into grandkids, sports and weather amid a commingled fog of Brut and English Leather in a too-small office with no ventilation, hang in there. Your resolve could have you inhaling New Car Smell in no time.

Shop Around... Really Around

There’s a lot to be said for keeping your dollars local to your own community, but we caution against doing that at all costs without at least considering alternatives. We are talking about one of the largest transactions you make, after all. So by all means, see what a smaller dealer is willing to do for your business; just don’t stop there. Get quotes from competing dealers around the area and region. Jump online and browse high-volume dealers, even if they’re out of state. Many can and do ship cars on a regular basis while still offering substantial discounts. Sites like AutoTrader, Vehix or even eBay and Craigslist let you compare multiple dealer inventories at a time. 

What’s It Going To Take To Get You In This Car Today?

The safest and most cost-effective way to get a new car is through an authorized and licensed dealer. That doesn’t necessarily mean you’re stuck paying sticker price, nor does it mean you have to roll up your sleeves and go into extended haggling. Knowing how to get a discount on a new car is as much about education as it is mediation.

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Are Minivans Manly?

• Better Man in brief ...
• Minivans, despite their lack of "cool," are some of the more useful vehicles out there.
• If no other option is available, you can always sleep in your van.
• With all that room, getting frisky in the back isn't a backbreaking proposition.

"In a way, it served the growing family of man, woman and 2.5 kids named Moonbeam, Starchild and Herbert. It never really recovered the stigma of those days."

In the movie Get Shorty, John Travolta is unable to rent a Cadillac and is given a minivan. He tells confused onlookers that it’s the “Cadillac of minivans,” and soon all of Hollywood is driving minivans. Utilitarian needs aside, purchasing a vehicle is often more of a status symbol than a consideration of anything else.

The reputation of being a “soccer mom” mode of transportation still exists, but with the economy, more than society, changing the roles of husbands and wives in relation to ferrying the kids tosoccer, karate, ballet, and other lessons, soon to be forgotten as months go by, the minivan is the best choice for any lifestyle.

Although a recent article in The New York Times dubs Chrysler as the inventor of the minivan in 1983, the first minivan was actually the Volkswagen Type 2 Minibus, introduced in the 1950s both as a panel truck and as a removable-bench seat family wagon. Named as if it was a new model Messerschmitt, it was quickly associated with the peace and love generation who used the cheap mode of transportation for their cross-country, commune-visiting, Woodstock-camping, reefer-madness needs. In a way, it served the growing family of man, woman and 2.5 kids named Moonbeam, Starchild and Herbert. It never really recovered the stigma of those days.

This year’s North American International Auto Show has manufacturers pinning their hopes on the improving popularity of minivans with slightly smaller sizes, increased functionality and power, and, of course, sleeker styling. Recent advertising has introduced such terms as “swagger wagon,” “man van” and “shtuppmobile.” I am claiming that last one as mine for reasons that will soon become evident.

As with any vehicle, sales and choices will be driven by the look, gas mileage, some extras, safety of the family, blah, blah, blah. But it is what resides in the mind of the consumer that will determine the final choice.

I am the proud owner of a 2000 Toyota Sienna minivan. Black with silver trim, my kids call it “Darth Vader.” I fully admit to the damn thing having turned to the dark side many years ago -- 230,000-plus miles later, Darth still stays on snow-covered roads while SUVs and pickups careen into ditches. Darth has other options one can’t have in any other type of vehicle.

Room To Breathe

When you drive in a minivan, it’s like sitting in an open field: There’s space all around you. There’s legroom, headroom and a rear big enough to seat five or six adults, which you just don’t find elsewhere, even in the biggest SUV. On long trips, it helps keep you sane.

Shortly after purchasing the Sienna, I was divorced and my ex kept our Camry, choosing style over the safety of our children... but I digress.

I kept the minivan, which seemed to be the only smart thing my lawyer did for me during the legal farce that was my divorce. Having to travel 500 miles every weekend to see my kids, I soon learned of the many benefits of having that wonderful mode of transportation. The space was comfortable and allowed me to camp out overnight on the edge of town so I could be bright and chipper for the 8 a.m. pickup of the kids Saturday mornings, so their mother could have an early break from a long week of neglectful mothering… but I digress.

Minivans are more than just kid haulers. Read on to find out how to get the most out of one...

And, with darkened windows, it is more private and romantic than the restaurant bathroom."The sheer size of the vehicle allows one of six-foot height to either sleep across the front or back seats with only slightly bent legs. Or, the fold-down seats accommodate a full-size mattress for hotel-like comfort when a hotel is unavailable for whatever reason. In fact, if one sleeps in the parking lot of a hotel, the amenities of a pool, Wi-Fi and bathroom come free (if you park by the back door and wait for someone exiting so you can sashay right in and blend in with paying guests). Most hotels even offer a free breakfast, which can be added to the value of the minivan via “creative financing.”

On long road trips with my kids, many times we settled down, one seat to each of us, for a night’s rest when a hotel was not available. These days, with a plague of bedbugs across the nation, the minivan is cheaper, safer and cleaner than any Motel 666.

A Mobile Love Nest

Have you tried making out in bucket seats, also known as “captain’s chairs”? How about the backseat with the drive shaft hump in the middle? A minivan, depending on the model, has wide bench seats, which are perfect for some first-date affection or just an after-the-office-party game of “squeeze and tickle.” Even for adults, sometimes a quickie in the car is a need that a minivan fulfills. And, with darkened windows, it is more private and romantic than the restaurant bathroom.

Be the designated driver for a bunch of drunken coworkers and the carefully planned last-to-be-dropped-off can supply you with a handy promotion or just be “handy.” I’ve had a lot of boobs in my minivan and I’m not referring to the lack of intelligence of passengers.

Get Up And Go

With the seats folded down (or stashed away, as with many models) and a roof rack, I have been able to move my entire apartment contents in two or three loads, as opposed to renting a trailer or truck. Just don’t let friends and family know or you’ll be moving them, too.

With seats back to the upright position, you once again travel in style. With the addition of the shrunken head hanging from my rearview mirror and assorted stickers from tattoo parlors on my bumper, I think I have the ultimate “Man Van.” I remind you it’s yourattitude as you sit behind the wheel that makes the vehicle. No one has made sport of my having a minivan… although some women have refused rides.

So test-drive a minivan and ask the saleswoman, as part of closing the deal, for her “hand” on it. After all -- you will hold her pen to sign the contract... but I digress.

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The Beginner's Guide To Motorcycles

• Better Man in brief
• Make sure you dress the part, more importantly for safety than style.
• Don't kid yourself that you'll be riding a big hog right away - start small.
• The best and safest way to get into it is to take an approved MSF Beginner course.

"Just because our motorcycle licensing laws are preposterous doesn’t mean there isn’t a safe way to bust into the coolest hobby in the universe."

In most U.S. states, obtaining a motorcycle endorsement on your driver's license is about as easy as filling out a magazine survey. Almost anyone -- regardless of motorcycle experience -- can pass the written test without studying, march down to the nearest Suzuki dealer and lay a stack of Benjamins down on a brand new 1300cc Hayabusa, only to blast it into a ditch up the street. It happens all the time. That’s the reason why the U.S. has one of the highest motorcycle crash rates in the world. In Japan, it takes years of training and experience on smaller bikes in order to finally be licensed to ride the monsters, and that’s the way it should be.

Just because our motorcycle licensing laws are preposterous doesn’t mean there isn’t a safe way to bust into the coolest hobby in the universe. We think this guide is the best strategy for beginners looking to get the wheels in motion. 

ATGATT

You may have heard the term “all the gear all the time” intoned by experienced riders, and those are six essential words to which any novice rider should take heed. Once you have committed yourself to the electrifying world of motorcycling, the first step is to outfit yourself in the proper gear. Whether you borrow it from a friend or invest in a head-to-toe set of quality riding apparel, gear is mandatory. In fact, all Motorcycle Safety Foundation (MSF) courses require full gear, so it’s best to meet this need from the beginning. Although gear is not required to ride a motorcycle in the U.S., and some states do not have or enforce helmet laws, these are not good reasons to neglect to suit up. It will literally save your ass, as even Rossi can attest to. The last thing you want to be is a “Squid” (rider with no gear), no matter how cool you may believe you look without your gear on.

When we talk about proper gear, we mean helmet, jacket, gloves, pants and boots. A decent helmet will be DOT certified, though the highest safety rating is both SNELL and DOT approved. Shoei and Arai are two of the best helmet brands on the market, and we can back that up with years of experience riding with both brands in the dirt and on the street. A decent leather jacket should have CE-certified shoulder, elbow and back protection. Proper riding pants will have hip and knee protection, and boots should be full leather, extending past the ankle. Different gear is available depending on where you do most of your riding, and you can easily find gear with all of the safety credentials for nearly any genre of motorcycling either online or at a local dealer.

Training

Now that you’re properly equipped to ride a motorcycle, it’s time to understand one. Before you even book an MSF class, take some time to study the mechanics of a motorcycle, from the throttle to clutch actuation to the fuel delivery system, and so on. This will help you understand certain aspects of motorcycle control before you actually hop onto one in class. If you’ve ever driven a car with a manual transmission, a parallel can be drawn to motorcycling, as you are performing the same task, only with a clutch lever and foot shifter. Also, if you have a chance to practice on a dirt bike with an experienced rider, learning in the dirt is a fantastic way to learn to tame a street motorcycle.

Next, you're gonna need a bike...

When you’ve found a bike that suits your riding style, new or used, ride it for a year without any modifications."

After grasping the mechanics of a two-wheeled machine and acquiring the proper gear, you should find the nearest MSF RiderCourse and book a beginner-level class. Not only will you learn from trained instructors how to ride a motorcycle, but you will also learn crucial traffic-safety techniques. Also, most MSF courses provide you very tame bikes with which to complete the training, and you will get a 10% insurance discount with your MSF RiderCourse certificate. Riders of all ages and experience levels can be found in the MSF Beginner course, and it should be considered a basic requirement to all new riders. Lastly, one of the most critical portions of motorcycle education centers on deflecting poor advice. Listen to your instructors, rather than the Squid down the street with the scratch-and-dent Gixxer 1000. There’s a reason he’s sporting strawberry road rash and a significant loss in brain cells.

Get Legal And Find A Bike

Once you’ve got some decent training under your helmet, you should feel confident enough to hit the road. First, you’ll have to get a motorcycle license endorsement. This way, if you’re ever pulled over by the cops, you won’t risk having your bike confiscated and license suspended. Also, a motorcycle license endorsement requires the completion of a written test, which means you’ll have a chance to study safety on the road even further using the MSF handbook.

When you've obtained your endorsement, the time has finally come. That 1400cc ZX14 you’ve been drooling over can now be yours! Nah, just kidding. No beginner bike should exceed an unmodified 500cc for a first ride -- end of story. The Kawasaki Ninja EX250 or Ninja EX500 are fantastic beginner bikes because they feature domesticated, smooth torque and low horsepower. Other bikes like the Suzuki TU250X and Triumph Bonneville are fairly docile as well and serve as great beginner bikes. Honda just released a CBR250R to go head-to-head with Kawi’s Ninja 250. There are countless used bikes like the smaller CC Honda Nighthawks and Yamaha V-Star 250s that will get you going at a safe, comfortable speed and friendly power level.

When you’ve found a bike that suits your riding style, new or used, ride it for a year without any modifications. Focus on improving your riding skills, adapting to traffic, road conditions and weather, and learn how to perform basic maintenance on your bike. Stick with experienced riders and steer clear of uneducated newbies. Get in the habit of performing routine bike inspections, including tire pressure, oil level, chain lube and loose bolts. Become one with your motorcycle and you shall ride far -- safely.

Bring Your Skill To Redline

After a certain time passes, you’re going to feel the need to upgrade to a larger CC motorcycle. You’ve used your first trusty set of wheels to learn the basics, and now it’s time to have a bit more fun with a little more power. The next logical step up from a 250 or 500 is a 600 or 750, depending on your skill level and confidence. Once you seal the deal on a Yamaha R6 or Kawasaki Ninja ZX6, it’s time for some advanced training. There are oodles of advanced-rider schools across the country, and some of our top picks are Superbike School, Total Control, Penguin Schooland the Fishtail Riding School. With great power comes great responsibility, and schooling yourself on advanced riding techniques is one of the most responsible steps a motorcycle rider can take. Track days are also an exceptional way to learn, as the more education you attain, the better a rider you will be. Good luck on the road, and ride safe!

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Car Part Replacement Calendar

Trying to remember all your appointments, important dates and phone numbers is commendable, if hardly possible.  That’s a major reason you carry a smartphone; its ability to make calls has almost become an ancillary feature.

So, considering what you already need to keep sorted, you might think you don’t have head space for a car part replacement calendar. Proper car upkeep takes more than keeping gas in the tank and changing the engine oil regularly, so neglect is neither an option nor an excuse. So, at least whip out your phone and enter our advice -- it ranks high -- at least it should -- among must-remember data. For each entry on our car part replacement calendar, we’ll show the general time and/or mileage intervals between replacements, but always confirm with your owner’s manual, since these may vary from car to car.

Fuel Filter

This is an item that’s probably as important as it is overlooked. Assuming yours is a fuel-injected car, the fuel filter is more or less on continuous duty whenever your ignition is on and the fuel pump is active, preventing impurities from clogging injectors. So, over time, replacement will be necessary. Locations vary from beneath the hood or undercarriage to inside the fuel tank itself. Since systems are often pressurized and fuel lines need to be safely crimped, you might prefer to let a technician handle it.

When to replace: Every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

Power-Steering Fluid

On your car part replacement calendar, it doesn’t get much easier than where your power steering fluid is concerned.  Still, give it proper consideration, since it lubricates the system and keeps steering feel consistent. Periodic checks of the fluid are done with a glance at the reservoir or the dipstick inside it. Make sure you add only the manufacturer’s suggested fluid type and talk to a technician if the level drops considerably or you feel surges of resistance as you turn the wheel.

When to replace: Inspect level with every engine oil change, top-off as needed.

Battery

How often do car batteries receive proactive attention? About as frequently as Metallica’s “Battery” is heard on easy-listening stations. Even if you keep your terminals clean and your charging system works fine, you’ll eventually need to replace the battery. When you do, do it right. Use only the battery that matches manufacturer’s specs at the very least.  Consider upgrading to advanced-technology batteries that offset higher initial cost with extended life and more consistent performance.     

When to replace: Typically 48 to 60 months or as needed.

Air Filter

Most often out of sight and out of mind, the air filter deserves better, and a place on your car part replacement calendar is a start. Try running with your hand over your mouth, and you’ll get an idea how much your engine depends on air. That air for the engine and airflow sensor still has to be free of contaminates, though, and that’s your air filter’s job. Be aware of manufacturer recommendations for replacing related air flow components like the PCV valve and oxygen sensor, if your car has them.

When to replace: 12 months, 12,000 miles or as needed.

Automatic Trans Fluid/Filter

In cars with conventional automatic or clutchless gearboxes, fluid is to the transmission what oil is to the engine in terms of function and importance. It fights friction and keeps things within safe operating temps. Ignoring it pretty much leads to the same issues: expensive repair bills at the mechanic. Fortunately, prevention is similarly easy. Check the fluid periodically, top off with the specific kind recommended in your owner’s manual and change it occasionally along with the filter.

When to replace: Every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

The final essential info in our car part replacement calendar...

Spark Plugs

You can’t have an internal combustion engine without combustion, and spark plugs make it happen by firing up the mixture of air and fuel in each cylinder, either alone or in a pair. Cleaner-burning engines and advances in plug construction mean less maintenance and extended service, but they still need replacement. Whether or not they’ve reached their mileage limit, they (and the plug wires) could be to blame when mileage suffers, the engine runs poorly and you fail your emissions test.

When to replace: Every 30,000 to 100,000 miles.

Engine Belts & Timing Belts

It’s no accident for engine belts to have a prominent spot on your car part replacement calendar. The one or more outside keep components like your alternator and water pump active. Inside, the timing belt (some cars have timing chains) keeps valves from bashing into pistons. When either belt fails, it’s bad news. At the least, your forward progress will cease to be. At worst, you’ll need major engine work at the mechanic in the case of some timing belt breakage and the resulting carnage.  

When to replace: Every 3 years or 36,000 miles for engine belts or 60,000 to 90,000 miles for the timing belt.

Coolant

That liquid in the radiator is a real multitasker. It serves as antifreeze, coolant and guards against corrosion in the cooling system. So, given its duties, you can appreciate its rank on your car part replacement calendar. Do check the level regularly, but also understand its cleanliness and potency diminish. Topping off and changing should only be done with the right coolant type and water mixture ratio (typically 50/50).
 
When to replace: Every 2 years or 24,000 miles.

Tires

Tire wear patterns are telling -- revealing aggressive driving, improper inflation or worn suspension components.  Regardless, you’ll eventually need fresh tires. The best way to confirm is with a tread depth gauge. Alternately, stick a penny upside down in the grooves (if you see the top of the president’s head, it's time to replace the tire) or check built-in wear bars. Age is also a concern, since longer lasting tires and use of multiple sets (i.e., winter and summer) can mean safety is compromised even with adequate tread depth.

When to replace: At the minimum safe tread depth or 6 to 10 years.

Brakes

We’re honestly baffled why anyone would ignore or even undervalue their brake system. The effects of failures of the other items on our car part replacement calendar range from inconvenient to being stranded, but with the possible exception of tires, nothing’s potentially lethal except brakes. Preventing that mess is drama-free: Just check the fluid level and change it every so often. Keep an eye on brake pad condition, and replace as soon as safety is compromised.
 
When to replace: Every 2 years or 24,000 miles (fluid), prior to minimum safe thickness (pads).

Better Safe Than Sorry

Maintaining your car by keeping the aforementioned parts in good working order may not be the sexiest part of owning a vehicle, but it does let you get to enjoy the fun stuff instead of being stranded with non-functioning ride.

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